Overview
The Lake District, an area of outstanding natural beauty, lies in the county of Cumbria (formerly Cumberland and Westmoreland) in the north west of England. It is famous principally as the retreat and home of many writers, especially the Romantic poets of the early 19th century.
Like the south west of Ireland and the glens and lochs of Scotland, the geography of the region was moulded during the Ice Age. Glaciers on the move carved out hollows, which the subsequent high rainfall soon converted into lakes; this process, aided by the contours of the land, created the Lake District. The effects of glaciation are easy to see, and much loved by geography teachers on field courses. Although the area boasts several high jagged peaks, formed by dramatic volcanic explosions (e.g. Scafell Pike – famous for its rock climbing), most of the hills are smooth and rounded. It is this rugged landscape, combined with the lakes and an abundance of trees and flowers, which makes the area so special.
Wordsworth was the first to liken the shape of the Lake District to a wheel, though it is perhaps easier to think of it as two wheels, centred on Keswick in the north, and Ambleside in the south. From each of these lakes and dales radiate out, like spokes on a bicycle wheel. Though the two towns are only 15 miles apart, they often seem to be in two different countries. Even the accents are different, with those around Windermere sounding like Lancastrians, while the northern dialect is heavily influenced by the Scots. Residents tend to be staunchly loyal to their particular valley, regarding all intruders as foreigners, and considering any excursion outside to be a trip into hostile territory.
Historically the region was mostly by-passed by the various forces that have shaped the destiny of Britain. The Celts, however, clung on to their old ways for a long time in Central Lakeland, just as they did in Wales. For many years there were strong connections between the two communities, and each called themselves Cymry, hence Cumbria. There are many Celtic place names in Cumbria to this day that sound Welsh, such as those beginning with “pen”, meaning head or hill, as in Penrith or Penruddock; or “blaen-“ meaning summit, as in Blencathra or Blencow. A Norse influence also lingers on in certain place names such as Ullswater (from Ulf, a Viking chief) or the ending “-hwaite”, which you see everywhere, meaning a clearing in the forest. Other Norse derived words common in the Lakes include dale (from dalr), fell (from fjall), tarn (from tjarn), and force (meaning waterfall, from foss).
The northern part of present day Cumbria has always been influenced by its proximity to Scotland. Indeed, for a while, it became part of the northern kingdom. For several centuries there was constant conflict, looting and pillaging. Families and villages would swap loyalties depending on who they thought would win. These feuds have been romanticised by the novels of Walter Scott, but until as recently as the 18th century it was a dangerous place to live. Even today north Cumbrians remain a suspicious folk, and newcomers to the area sometimes have to wait a year or more to merit a simple greeting. Most of these locals were, and still are, small time farmers. The aristocracy chose to live away from the lakes in castles at Carlisle, Penrith, Cockermouth and Kendal, since poor communications made a comfortable lifestyle too difficult to maintain in the more remote areas.
Trades and Industries
Before the literary cult of the Lakes grew up the principal value of the area was as a source of lead and graphite; the latter is remembered in Lakeland crayons. Slate was also quarried in the Coniston area, and many local cottages feature roofs and walls made from this greenish material. The art of making dry stone walls without mortar and cement has left its mark on the landscape. These were made from stone and slate and were used to enclose or divide up the farming land. There are still plenty of derelict slate mines all over the Northern Fells.
Sheep farming is the principal source of income for the agricultural community, as the sloping terrain makes it extremely difficult to grow crops. The native Cumbrian breed is the Herdwick, which is supposed to have originally come from Spain, 400 years ago, when an Armada galleon was wrecked on the Cumbrian coast. They have white faces and are reputed to be the hardiest of all sheep breeds. When really hungry they will eat their own wool to stay alive (more accurately they suck out the oils).
Cumbrian sheep farmers remain the most conservative of men. When counting sheep, they still use an ancient Celtic numbering system, which goes something like this:
Yan, tan, tether, mether, pimp,
teezar, leezar, catterah, horna, dick,
yan-dick, tan-dick, tether-dick, mether-dick, bumpit,
yan-a-bumpit, tan-a-bumpit, tedera-bumpit, medera-bumpit, gigot...
Naturally, with all these sheep, the woollen industry has always been strong in Cumbria. Kendal was the heart of it for six centuries and local cloths were famous throughout Britain. Shakespeare even mentions a material known as “Kendal green” in Henry IV. It was a cottage industry, with deliveries made by packhorse to Carlisle and the port at Whitehaven.
The Industrial Revolution brought an end to all this, and the main mass trade moved south to the more accessible urban areas of Lancashire and Yorkshire, though Carlisle today still has some high quality woollen mills.
Nowadays, tourism is undoubtedly the main source of revenue, however loudly local farmers try to deny it. The Lake District National Park, set up in 1951, is Britain’s largest, covering 880 square miles. It is patrolled by 13 full time rangers, who offer help and advice to visitors. Building within the park is strictly controlled by the Lake District Special Planning Board, which seeks to preserve the environment for everyone.
The Lakeland Poets
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Cumbrian Customs and Curiosities
- Char – A unique species of fish, found only in Lake Windermere. Supposedly stranded here in the Ice Age.
- Fell Ponies – Mostly black, brown or grey. Formerly used in mines and for pulling carts.
- Fell Racing – A race to the top of the nearest hill, round a flag and down again.
- Fox hunting – Farmers follow the huntsman and beagle pack on foot, guns at the ready.
- Gurning – Annual Egremont Crab Fair tradition: competitors make the ugliest face through a horse collar.
- Merry Neet – A Cumbrian-style evening celebration, usually after a fox hunt.
- Rush bearing – Ceremony at Grasmere church commemorating laying rushes on bare floors each August.
- Sheep Dog Trials – Began in the North of England in 1876; popularised by BBC’s One Man and His Dog.
- Statesman – Ancient name for small farmer.
- Wrestling – Cumberland and Westmoreland style; Norse origin; still popular at shows.
Cumbrian Culinary Specialities
- Tatie Pot – Traditional shepherd’s hot-pot supper.
- Grasmere Gingerbread – Secret recipe from 1855, kept in a bank vault.
- Cumberland Sausage – Fresh pork and herbs, served in long strips.
- Kendal Mint Cake – High-energy mint candy bar, used by mountaineers.
Lakeland Towns
Bowness and Windermere
Population: 8,500
Largest town in the Lake District. Centre of tourism and only town in the National Park served by a mainline railway.
Grasmere
Famous for Wordsworth’s Dove Cottage and museum. Surrounded by fells.
Keswick
Population: 4,672
Known as the “Queen of Lakeland.” Historic market town, now a hub for walkers and hikers.
Ullswater
A serpentine lake, seven and a half miles long, 205 ft deep. Best lake for sailing; historic steamers still operate.
Highest Peaks
- Scafell Pike – 3,210 ft (978 m)
- Scafell – 3,162 ft (964 m)
- Helvellyn – 3,118 ft (950 m)
- Skiddaw – 3,053 ft (931 m)