Overview
A legendary tradition going back to the time of St Benedict claims that a mysterious light was seen at night on the shores of the lake. This miraculous fire that did not burn attracted people to found a settlement here, which they named Lucerna, the Latin word lux meaning light.
A Benedictine monastery was established in the 8th century on the site of the present Hofkirche, and by 1178 the modest fishing village had gained the status of a town, owing to the increasing importance of the Gotthard route through the Alps. Lucerne became one of the main staging posts where travelers gathered before challenging the perilous Alpine pass.
The Tour
Begin your walking tour at the Kapellbrucke, on the bank nearest to the octagonal stone tower.
Chapel Bridge
This was the oldest covered bridge in Europe, built around 1300. It served as an important defense against possible attack from the lake at the town’s most vulnerable point. The lake-facing side was further protected by a palisade of stakes to hinder hostile ships. Originally the bridge extended to the steps of the Hofkirche and continued the defensive walls that surrounded the town on the landward side. The bridge is covered simply to protect pedestrians from frequent rain and snow.
Although other covered bridges exist in central Europe, Lucerne’s bridges are unique for the series of triangular roof-panel paintings. These served as an educational picture gallery. At a time when books were rare, people learned much about local history from these paintings, which began around 1614. A fire on the night of August 17, 1993 destroyed most of the bridge. Nearly all the paintings were lost and later replaced with photographic copies. The bridge itself was faithfully reconstructed within six months.
The first six paintings trace the legendary origins and early history of Lucerne, featuring early settlers, the founding of the monastery, its construction, and a view of Lucerne around 1600. Eight more panels show the banners of the towns in the canton of Lucerne. A third group of ten depicts religious foundations and saints of central Switzerland. The fourth group illustrates the origins of the Confederation, with panels 30, 31, and 32 being especially notable.
The William Tell Legend in the Panels
In 1291, the farmers of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden swore an oath of independence. Emperor Rudolph von Habsburg sent bailiffs to restore control of these strategic lands along the St Gotthard route. One bailiff, Gessler, ordered a hat placed on a pole in the marketplace of Altdorf and demanded that citizens bow before it. William Tell refused and was arrested.
Gessler, knowing Tell’s skill with a crossbow, devised a cruel test. Tell’s son was tied to a tree with an apple placed on his head. Tell selected two arrows and struck the apple on the first shot. Asked why he prepared a second arrow, Tell replied that it was meant for Gessler if he failed. Furious, Gessler had him chained and transported by boat to an imperial prison. During a storm, the soldiers freed Tell to help them steer. He guided them to a rocky ledge, leapt ashore, and pushed the boat back into the lake. Later, Tell ambushed Gessler and shot him with the second arrow. Look for scenes from this story on the bridge.
The Water Tower
The octagonal stone tower beside the bridge was built around 1300 as part of the town’s defenses. Over the centuries it has served many purposes, including a treasury, archive, prison, and torture chamber. Drawings still exist showing various torture methods. Besides criminals and highwaymen, several women accused of witchcraft also spent their final days here.
St Peter’s Chapel
Located at the end of the Chapel Bridge, this small church is the oldest chapel within the former city walls. It was first mentioned in 1178.
Kappelplatz (Chapel Square)
The colorful fountain here dates only from 1918, though a fountain has stood on this site since at least the 15th century. Traders gathered here before crossing the St Gotthard Pass into Italy. Since there was no running water in homes, a communal fountain was essential and always placed where residents could easily reach it.
Part of the square once held the cemetery of St Peter’s Chapel until 1542. This explains the legend of Brother Fritschi, said to be buried here. Each Maundy Thursday he is said to circle the fountain in his coach and horses. The fountain’s figure represents him and also preserves local tradition.
Up an alley away from the river is a painted house that illustrates the colorful spirit of Fasnacht, or Carnival.
Kornmarkt (Cornmarket)
This square features the Old Town Hall with its tall square tower, built from 1602 to 1606 in Renaissance style borrowed from Italy. The steep roof reflects rural Alpine architecture. The tower retains its original clock and once served as a watchtower. Town trumpeters played from here on feast days, though they were often reprimanded for playing cheerful folk tunes instead of solemn church music.
To the right of the Town Hall stands the Zunfthaus zu Pfistern, a 16th century guild house with a beautifully painted façade. It belonged to the bakers’ guild, founded in 1371.
Hirschenplatz (Stag Square)
The wrought iron stag sign marks the inn called the Hirschen, which has held tavern rights since 1474. More than 500 years later, it remains a welcoming place to eat and stay. Its original wrought iron sign reflects the skill of local craftsmen. In earlier times, when most people could not read, such signs identified inns and shops.
To the right is a 15th century building decorated with knights, noble hunters, and a man with a crossbow like William Tell’s. The crossbow symbol remains associated with Swiss craftsmanship. Farther right is an 18th century façade, and in the corner stands the Goldene Adler inn. First mentioned in 1356, it was the finest inn in Lucerne until lakeside hotels were built. As noted on its wall, Goethe stayed here in 1799.
Weinmarkt (Wine Market)
In the Middle Ages and until the 18th century, famous Easter miracle plays were performed here. These religious dramas lasted all day for many days and drew captivated crowds.
The Gothic fountain is an exact copy of the original built in 1481 and is linked to early water rites. Water was viewed as purifying, and it was strictly forbidden to pollute lakes and rivers. Opposite the fountain is the Apotheke, established in 1530, and the guild house of the butchers and fishermen.
As you exit the square, look left to see the beautifully painted façade of the Hotel des Balances. Its history stretches back to 1199 when it was a residence of the dukes of Austria. It later witnessed the oath of the four cantons and served as the Town Hall for nearly 120 years. It is now an elegant hotel.
Mühlenplatz (Mill Square)
Paintings on a building to your right depict scenes of old Lucerne. On the left are fishermen on the lake, in the center the Mill Bridge as it once looked with its water-driven mill wheels, and on the right a detailed mill wheel used for grinding corn.
Next to this is the former mint. Lucerne minted its own coins from 1418 to 1846, and the mint built in 1597 used water power for coin stamping. The relief above the entrance shows a coin press, lions guarding cornucopias of coins, and the figure of Lucerne being crowned by Mercury, the god of trade.
Above the town on the hillside stands the Gütsch, an extravagant 19th century hotel that can be reached by cable car.
You can also spot portions of the ancient city walls and towers. Around 1400 there were 30 towers and gates. About half were demolished in 1856 during modernization efforts.
Mühlenbrücke (Mill Bridge) or Spreuerbrücke
Also called the Dance of Death Bridge, it was built in 1408 and decorated around 1630. Its cycle of paintings revives the medieval theme of the Dance of Death. Each picture shows a figure being claimed by death in his or her own setting, offering a vivid portrayal of 17th century life. The accompanying texts are written in an old dialect and express reflections on mortality, such as:
All living things that fly or leap
Or crawl or swim or run or creep
Flee Death, yet can they find no spot
In all the world where Death is not.
A king am I of wide domain
Doughty in war and rich in gain
My foes fall low before my might
But Death will bring me into night.
Jesuit Church
Built in 1666, this was the earliest Jesuit church in Switzerland and remains one of the most charming late Baroque churches north of the Alps. Its onion-domed towers were added in 1895. The interior features pastel stucco, pink marble, a broad single nave with shallow chapels, and an ornate pulpit placed mid-nave to improve acoustics. Clear glass windows high on the walls illuminate the trompe l’oeil ceiling. The pink stucco marble altar and the small organ in the west gallery are especially noteworthy.
Lion Monument
A symbol of Lucerne, the Lion Monument is carved into the sandstone rock. The Swiss were renowned fighters and served as guards for many nations, including the papal guard at St Peter’s in Rome. They were also assigned to protect Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. On August 10, 1792, 786 Swiss guards died defending the royal family during the French Revolution.
The dying lion, with its sorrowful expression, was carved in 1821 by the Danish sculptor Thorvaldsen to honor those who died in service.
The Hofkirche
This is the church of the original Benedictine monastery that stood here at the dawn of Lucerne’s history. The monastery once formed a self-contained complex resembling a small fortified town. The church itself is modest, but its most notable feature is the cemetery, arranged in the camposanto style within the former cloister.