Overview
As you drive through Germany, sooner or later you will have a long bus ride on the Autobahn. The excitement of fast-car spotting normally wears off pretty quickly and it will be up to you to keep the group’s interest going. You will soon realize that giving entertaining road commentary about German history is not that easy, as your group’s background knowledge is most probably limited to the Third Reich, the Berlin Wall and perhaps Bismarck. You can’t just go down a line of kings, some revolutions and some wars; Germany’s past is confusing, so it might be a good idea to go easy on the history and to look at some other themes.
The German Patchwork
Only 200 years ago Germany was made up of 1,790 independent states. The different cities, duchies, bishoprics, kingdoms etc. were very loosely connected and any attempt at unification was doomed to failure. Still, the idea of a German Reich has been a Leitmotiv throughout German history. From 962 (Otto the Great) until 1806 the German Raum had its Emperor. Crowned by the Pope, the Holy Roman Emperor of Germany was supposed to be the unchallenged ruler of the Christian world. He was to continue Charlemagne’s Empire, which had been established to revive the notion of Empire as created by the Caesars. The pompous title of Holy Roman Emperor was proudly carried until Napoleon rampaged through Europe and gave Germany a big shake-up.
These Emperors were far from being authoritarian rulers like the French and English kings. They were symbolic top dogs elected by seven Electors. After the Thirty Years’ War the effective power of the Emperor had decreased to the point where he could not even count on an efficient army, as not all the states sent soldiers. The meetings of the members of the Empire, the so-called Diets, did not produce clear legal or religious guidelines.
So for centuries the different duchies, Imperial cities, principalities, etc., muddled along. It was finally the expansionist policy of Prussia combined with a developing national awareness after the Napoleonic wars that made unification possible. In 1871 the dream of the Great German Nation (the Second Reich) came true. Due to the impressive industrial boom, it was easy to create fast links between the different German states. It was obvious that being together was advantageous in all respects. The notion of national identity became almost a cult and culminated in an incredible confidence that facilitated the outbreak of the First World War.
Travelling through Germany is travelling through regions with different pasts, but it is not always easy to spot the differences, as there is a sort of bland uniformity common to the whole country. The pedestrian areas in the cities all look alike, the same chain stores have branches all over the country and the houses built after the war look similar everywhere. Where you can really observe the German spectrum is through the people: the way they dress (you will be lucky to find Lederhosen in Berlin), their regional dialects (a Bavarian won’t understand a Friesian) or their religious attitudes (churches in Lutheran Bremen are emptier than the ones in Catholic Munich). Comparing the different types you will soon find that, for example, the Bavarians have more in common with the Austrians than with the Prussians, and that the Swabians are closer to the Swiss than to the Saxons.
East–West Division
The barbed wire has been cut, the Wall pulled down, but the gap between East and West still seems to grow. Unemployment in the East is still on the increase. Many of the inefficient and polluting factories have simply been closed down, whilst others have been taken over and streamlined by the West with a huge loss of jobs. In the communist system employment was guaranteed; now suddenly the comfort blanket has gone and people have no faith in the future. In 1993 the birth rate dropped dramatically — a clear sign of insecurity in the population.
Meanwhile the West is trying to cope with the rather painful adoption of poor (and polluting) baby brother. Prior to unification there was no German north–south divide as there is in Italy or even in the UK, and it is a blow to German pride to see their country now divided into “proper” Germany and the mezzogiorno with all its attendant problems of social and economic inequality.
Much of the frustration of the unemployed and the East–West malaise has been translated into racism towards the Gastarbeiter, asylum seekers and foreigners in general. The widely publicised violence has sent a shiver all over the world with its echoes of Germany’s recent past. It is debatable, however, whether the problem is really much worse than in France, Switzerland or England, but there is a skeleton in the cupboard.
The Language
Before the Reformation Germany’s language mirrored the geographical and political labyrinth. It was the advent of the printing press and the translation of the Bible which first introduced a pan-German language, referred to as Hochdeutsch. This became the official language in the entire German Raum, which includes Austria and two-thirds of Switzerland. Hochdeutsch is used in literature and on stage, in school and in court, in church and at official functions. In all other everyday contexts the people speak a variety of widely different regional dialects.
Since Hochdeutsch was created long before the unification of 1870, it is undoubtedly the real force behind the notion of German identity. It produced four elements crucial for understanding the “German soul”: Literature, Philosophy, Moral Tales and the Volkslied.
Literature
The Germans read a lot. Visit a bookshop and you will be amazed at the choice of German novels whose authors you may never have heard of. People enter the bookshop knowing which book they are going to purchase. The covers are sober and glossy coffee-table books have not really caught on — a book is there to be read, not looked at. It is no surprise that probably the biggest German “hero” of all time is a writer: Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. As he travelled a lot he is the pride of many towns and villages, and sooner or later you are bound to come across a house with a plaque telling you Goethe stayed a night there.
Even in the 20th century, writers are important personalities, and authors such as Böll and Grass are as famous as film actors. Germans have great talent for learning foreign languages, so it might seem strange that almost all foreign films shown in cinemas or on TV are dubbed into German. The German is attached to his language: he wants to understand things and considers his own language the best tool for clarity. Germans don’t like approximations — things have to be clear and spelled out.
Philosophy
Whilst in England the Reformation was carried out single-handedly by Henry VIII, Germany’s religious reform was a deeply popular movement. A new way of thinking spread rapidly thanks to Gutenberg’s printing press and Luther’s vernacular Bible.
The German people developed a profound sensibility toward the written word and its power. New ideas were unstoppable. Even in modern times, two German manifestos have had enormous global influence: Marx’s Das Kapital and Hitler’s Mein Kampf. In the 17th and 18th centuries, hundreds of philosophical texts were produced yearly and discussed among intellectuals in Berlin, Leipzig, Weimar and other centres.
The Enlightenment (die Aufklärung), which originated in France, made a big impact on German society and universities. The Teutonic character responded well to logical thinking applied to human behaviour, nature and scientific laws. While in France the Enlightenment culminated in the Revolution, Germany experienced a flowering of culture. Rationalism was tempered with tolerance and concern for harmony. This was the age of Weimar Classicism (1780–1830), represented most famously by Schiller and Goethe.
Archaeological discoveries in Italy and Greece provoked an enthusiasm for antiquity. Admiration for classical ideals — harmony, beauty, moral striving — shaped German culture profoundly. A sense of responsibility and respect for natural harmony remain hallmarks of the German character. Germans care deeply about the Umwelt and conscientiously recycle everything. The Green Party has shown more influence and consistency in Germany than in most other countries.
Das Märchen and Das Volkslied
Are Grimm’s Fairy Tales politically correct? A German doesn’t worry about it. Grimm is a monument; it is part of being a child. Other countries may have more elegant children’s literature, but no one else has witches like in Hansel and Gretel or wolves like those in Rotkäppchen. Every household has a copy of the Fairy Tales, together with two other famous German children’s books: Max und Moritz and Struwwelpeter — both extremely violent, but always in the service of moral education. Germans take education seriously and believe one must see the bad to understand the good.
Das Volkslied is a unique German phenomenon, difficult to translate. These songs, often learned at school, were composed largely during the 19th-century Romantic period. Themes include hiking (Das Wandern ist des Müllers Lust), horseback travel, gipsy-style wandering (Lustig ist das Zigeunerleben), forests, nature, and occasionally love. Even classical tunes like Schubert’s “Trout” are considered Volkslieder and form part of the national treasure (Volksschatz).
The melodies are catchy, usually in major keys, and designed to be sung in groups. In the 1990s beer-hall songs and Schlager hits replaced many traditional ones, but the communal spirit remains. These songs encourage joy — sometimes overflowing joy (Überschwänglichkeit) assisted by alcohol.
A few years ago a leading German politician topped the charts with a jazzed-up Volkslied. Imagine Tony Blair challenging a rap band for number one with “Cockles and Mussels”! In Germany it is not odd. Germans are too respectful of heritage to mock it — the Volkslied is still sacred.
The German Character
Given Germany’s recent history and the spectacular post-war recovery of the “Economic Miracle,” it is not surprising that many Europeans have a cliché-ridden and not entirely sympathetic view of the typical German — disciplined to an alarming degree, overly solemn and intellectual, wealthy and smug, and unnecessarily pushy.
Discipline and Order
Germans love order — to such an extent that they have historically been willing to follow communist or fascist leadership. Yet this characteristic also enabled Germany to rise from post-war rubble faster than England or France. Organization and disciplined hard work made Germany the premier nation of Europe.
The sentimental emotionalism that swept the country when the Berlin Wall fell should not overshadow the deeper desire to “normalize” the situation and tidy up an unsatisfactory corner of Europe.
A strong sense of discipline also means that Germans put great effort into even simple enjoyments. Their holidays are planned with military precision. They are famous for “bagging” beach chairs early in the morning. To a German, getting up at dawn is a small price to pay for securing the ingredients of a perfect day.
Intellectualism
The tradition of philosophizing is alive and well. Germans are earnestly interested in enlarging their horizons and keep open minds. There is little intellectual snobbery; ordinary Germans engage in far-reaching discussions on street corners.
There is a high level of political and socio-economic engagement. In many towns you will see small information stands, soapboxes, and speakers raising awareness on topics from bicycle power to Kurdish rights to women’s issues.
The “Atomkraft? Nein Danke!” culture of the 1970s is still alive. Many young people live in shared communes (Wohngemeinschaften) and combine a semi-hippie lifestyle with conventional work. Being “alternative” is not seen as provocative and is generally accepted.
The idea that Germans lack humour is nonsense. Among friends they are lively, gossipy, amusing, and exceptionally hospitable. A cosy café for Kaffee und Kuchen at four o’clock or a beer in a Munich beergarden on a sunny evening are among life’s great pleasures.
Standard of Living
Germans enjoy a high standard of living and consume high-quality goods. They are not ostentatious. One buys a BMW or Mercedes because it is the best — not to impress neighbours. Often the model name or number isn’t even displayed. Flashiness is suspicious.
The above notes should help you prepare commentary and perhaps dispel myths and preconceptions your group may bring. Obviously there are many other topics to explore: food, topography and local customs are easy to learn from guidebooks. For history, several excellent readable books have been published recently.