Tour Manager Notes: Venice

Key dates

c. 450 AD – The lagoon is settled as the Roman Empire collapses
697 – Election of first Doge
829 – Relics of St. Mark brought to Venice
1202 – Doge Enrico Dandolo commandeers 4th Crusade to sack Constantinople
1381 – Venice defeats Genoa at Chioggia
1453 – Turks take Constantinople
1797 – Napoleon conquers Venice, hands city to Austria
1866 – Venice becomes part of fledgling Italian state
1997 – Commandos occupy the Campanile and attempt to reinstate the Republic

Overview

Venice, la Serenissima, rising subtly but gloriously out of the still waters of its lagoon, is a city unlike any other. Founded by refugees from the end of the Western Roman Empire, it became Europe’s link with the East; the gateway for luxury goods, new technologies, oriental aesthetics and culture. Serenely decaying, and slowly sinking, Venice was for 1100 years the heart of a ruthless and powerful maritime empire that dominated European trade.

The city’s location is exceptional – built on an archipelago of 117 islands, divided by 150 canals and linked by 400 bridges. The Grand Canal snakes through the centre, lined with palazzi that rank among the most beautiful buildings in the world, while narrow alleyways and dark canals branch off in a convoluted labyrinth. Within minutes one can walk from the majestic open space of the Piazza San Marco and expansive views over the lagoon, to claustrophobic neighbourhoods, decrepit houses clustered around a tiny campo complete with church and well. In this extraordinary setting it is tempting to believe the Venetian myth that their ancestors rose fully formed from the mud.

In no other city is it so easy to lose oneself, but nowhere else is it such a delight, with the unexpected at every turn. When asking directions, the usual response is “sempre dritto” (straight on), which usually works – eventually. Even the helpful yellow signs that point to San Marco and other key locations often indicate two or even three different routes.

As confusing as the geography is the Venetian dialect, in which ‘g’ becomes ‘z,’ and ‘c’ becomes ‘x,’ with much elision. Thus: “Santi Giovanni e Paolo,” becomes “San Zanipolo.”

History

Fall of the Roman Empire

In the middle of the 5th century, with the Roman Empire collapsing, barbarian hordes spilled across the Alps in search of territory and spoils. These Visigoths, Huns, Ostrogoths and Lombards drove thousands of Roman citizens to seek refuge in the muddy wastes of the Venetian lagoon. Away from the chaos of the mainland, they established island communities where previously there had been only scanty fishing villages. They started to trade in the fish and salt of the lagoon and were soon sending vessels into the Adriatic and beyond.

The First Doge

As the Lombards occupied the North of Italy from Hungary, the scattered communities of the lagoon came together to resist the threat. Already recognised as a duchy by Byzantium, they elected the first Duke, or Doge, Paoluccio Anafesto, in 697 (according to Venetian legend). The inhabitants of the lagoon were already developing into an advanced society; trading in the Adriatic, Mediterranean and Black Seas, they brought back materials and technologies. In the 8th century, the capital was moved from Heraclea in the northern lagoon to Malamocco on the Lido.

Birth of Venetia, theft of St. Mark

In 810, the Frankish Pepin, son of Charlemagne, besieged the lagoon after a successful campaign against the Lombards. Angelo Partecipazio moved the capital to the Rivo Alto (“high bank”) at the centre of the lagoon. He ordered his fleet to lure Pepin’s navy into the lagoon, where they were grounded in the shallow waters as the locals darted around and massacred the Franks. Partecipazio was elected Doge and oversaw the development of the cluster of islands around the Rivo Alto, later known as Rialto. The islands took the name Venetia and the city was born.

In 829 two merchants stole the body of St. Mark from Alexandria, hiding it in a barrel of salted pork to deter the Muslim authorities. The Venetians replaced their patron St. Theodore with St. Mark. His winged lion became the city’s symbol.

Enrico Dandolo and the Fourth Crusade

Venice prospered through trade, growing wealthy and powerful. Doge Enrico Dandolo, though blind and over 80 years old, commandeered the Fourth Crusade in 1202. Stopping off to conquer Zara, they continued on to Constantinople, capital of the Byzantine empire. The city was sacked and the Venetians seized ports and islands, pillaging treasures including the four bronze horses (quadriga) that now adorn San Marco.

Beware of the Doge

Venice maintained a sophisticated intelligence system and secret police. Informants used the Lion’s Mouths to denounce conspirators. Retribution was swift: strangling, drowning, or hanging between the columns of the Piazzetta. Even Doges were vulnerable—some were blinded, exiled, or executed.

Riches and Luxury

From humble origins of salt and fish, Venice exported timber, iron ore, wool, meat and cereals, in exchange for luxuries of the East: Chinese silk, Persian damasks, Indian cotton, spices, Russian furs. Merchants built palazzi along the Grand Canal, prompting sumptuary laws to restrain excess.

Rivalry

Venice’s greatest rival was Genoa. In 1379, Genoa seized Chioggia and besieged Venice. Admiral Vittor Pisani scuppered boats to trap the Genoese fleet, forcing surrender in 1381.

Zenith and Decline

Venice reached its peak after defeating Genoa, but the fall of Constantinople in 1453 and Vasco da Gama’s route around Africa ended its monopoly. Venice declined into decadence rather than destitution.

The Pleasure House of Europe

By the 18th century, Venice was a city of courtesans and carnival. Napoleon ended the Republic in 1797, handing Venice to Austria. It became part of Italy in 1866.

Arts – Architecture

Venice is an architectural miracle, built on wooden piles sunk into mud. The Grand Canal is lined with Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque palazzi. The Basilica of San Marco, begun in 1063, shows Eastern influence and is encrusted with mosaics.

Palladio

Andrea Palladio revolutionised architecture with his harmonious classical style, influencing buildings worldwide. His churches and villas remain masterpieces.

Painting and Sculpture

Early Venetian art was loot from conquests. The Renaissance brought Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese. Later, Canaletto painted idealised city views for tourists.

Literature

Venice inspired Shakespeare (The Merchant of Venice, Othello), Byron, Ruskin, Henry James, Hemingway, and modern works like Death in Venice and Don’t Look Now.

Lifestyle – Ceremonial Splendour

Venice loved ceremonies: Carnival before Lent, the Marriage of Venice and the Sea on Ascension Day, and the Festa del Redentore in July.

Science

Venice pioneered production-line shipbuilding at the Arsenale and perfected glassmaking on Murano. Today, the city faces ecological challenges from flooding and sinking.