Key Dates
Overview
Denmark is made up of the peninsula of Jutland and over 400 islands, only 100 of which are inhabited. It also owns the Faroe Islands and Greenland. It is an extremely waterlogged country—no part of it is more than 32 miles from the coast. Denmark has a population of about 5 million. Copenhagen is the political and commercial centre, and home to the oldest royal dynasty in Europe. The present monarch is Queen Margrethe II. The city is situated on Zealand, the largest of the islands, which looks on a map like a stepping-stone between Europe and the rest of Scandinavia. Almost a third of the Danish population lives in Copenhagen. A serious traffic problem is avoided by the fact that nearly everyone travels by bicycle. Denmark has a very high standard of living and is well known for its developed welfare state.
History
The Vikings were the first Danes to make headlines, building extraordinary ships and sailing off to conquer Western Europe and the British Isles in the 8th, 9th and 10th centuries. They converted to Christianity in the 10th century (King Harald Bluetooth was reportedly impressed by a monk holding red-hot irons in his hands), though this did not dampen their enthusiasm for warfare. Britain was conquered in the next century and became part of Viking King Canute’s domain.
Canute’s empire dissolved shortly after his death, and medieval times were less successful. Queen Margrethe I managed to unite Denmark, Norway and Sweden before dying of the plague in 1412, but the Swedes resented this arrangement and fought for independence for centuries. By the 17th century Denmark had lost Sweden bit by bit, and war had bankrupted the country.
During the Napoleonic Wars, Denmark allied with Napoleon, which led to further financial disaster. After Napoleon’s defeat, Denmark had enormous war debts and no means to pay them. She ceded Norway to Sweden as compensation. Fifty years later Denmark had to surrender more territory—Schleswig and Holstein—to Bismarck’s Prussia. After World War I, North Holstein returned to Denmark and the current border was set. Following this came major civil unrest, influenced by the 1848 Revolution in France, leading to King Frederik VII giving up absolute rule in favour of the National Liberal Party.
The new government ushered in Denmark’s Golden Age, producing three world-famous figures: philosopher Søren Kierkegaard, sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, and fairy-tale writer Hans Christian Andersen. The beginnings of the welfare state also developed through social insurance schemes, and education reached the peasantry via adult high schools. In the early 20th century, politics was further democratised when the aristocratic upper chamber of parliament lost its privileges.
Denmark declared neutrality in both world wars but was still invaded by Hitler in World War II. A strong resistance movement emerged, and about 7,000 Jews were smuggled to safety in Sweden. Denmark later joined NATO in 1949 and entered the European Union in 1972 alongside Britain and Ireland.
Today the monarch is largely a figurehead, with government handled by Parliament—the Folketing—using proportional representation among roughly nine political parties.
Denmark has only one national TV station, funded by licence fees and free of advertising. Swedish stations can be received in many areas, and some German stations are available in southern Copenhagen.
Food and Drink
The most famous Danish foods are open sandwiches (smørrebrød) and Danish pastries (ironically called Wienerbrød, or Viennese pastry). Smørrebrød should not be confused with the Swedish smorgasbord, though Denmark has its own version called the koldt bord or cold table. A good one can be found at the restaurant in the train station near Tivoli. For a fixed price you work your way through herring starters, seafoods, cold cuts, mayonnaise salads and some hot dishes. Chinese food is also very popular—there are many Chinese restaurants, especially around Strøget. The national drinks are beer (ask for a Pilsner) and Akvavit, a strong potato-based schnapps.
What to Buy
Danish furniture is world-famous but not easy to take home. Other good options include porcelain, ceramics, Nordic-style knitwear and amber jewellery made from stones found in the Baltic.
Walking Tour of Copenhagen
Your hotel will likely be near Tivoli Gardens, making it the ideal starting point. Remind your group to wear good shoes—this is a long walk.
Tivoli Gardens
Opened in 1843, Tivoli is one of the most famous pleasure parks in the world. Covering 20 acres, it includes fairground rides, thrice-weekly fireworks, a concert hall, a mime theatre, a mouse circus, a wax museum, many shops and restaurants (one in a Chinese pagoda), and elaborate flower displays. It is open from May 1 to mid-September, 10am to midnight. In front of Tivoli stands the Town Hall.
Town Hall and Town Hall Square
Designed by Martin Nyrop and completed in 1905, the Town Hall features the figure of city founder Bishop Absalon above the main door, and six bronze night-watchmen in historical costumes on the roof. Excellent views are available from the tower—if you can manage 300 steps and narrow catwalks.
The square contains several sculptures, including the Bull and Dragon Fountain (1923). To the right stands a statue of Hans Christian Andersen; to the left, along Vesterbrogade, the Lur Blowers statue (1914). Cross Town Hall Square to enter the pedestrian street Strøget.
Strøget
Strøget is a long pedestrian shopping and entertainment street whose name changes several times—Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet, Amagertorv and Østergade. It is lined with cafés, bars, expensive shops and discos. Side streets lead into the Old Town, full of narrow lanes and picturesque courtyards, which students may want to explore later.
Where Vimmelskaftet becomes Amagertorv, turn right into Hyskenstræde to reach Gammel Strand.
Gammel Strand
Meaning “Old Shore,” this was once the city’s edge. It overlooks Frederiksholm Canal and features fish restaurants and the city’s fish market (weekday mornings except Monday). The statue of the Fishwife holding a fish stands here. Across the canal is an equestrian statue of Bishop Absalon.
The Thorvaldsens Museum
The ochre-coloured building with the classical frieze houses the works of Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770–1844), Denmark’s greatest sculptor. He spent forty years in Rome and donated his life’s work to Copenhagen.
Christiansborg
Beyond the museum lies Christiansborg, with its green copper roof. Now home to Parliament, it stands on the site where Bishop Absalon founded the city in 1167. Six earlier palaces on the site were destroyed by fire or attack. The current building dates from the early 20th century.
Børsen (Stock Exchange)
Further along is the 17th-century Børsen, with a striking spire formed from four intertwined dragons’ tails. It was built during the reign of Christian IV.
Holmens Kirke
Originally an anchor forge, Holmens Kirke was converted into a church for sailors by Christian IV. Inside are beautiful oak carvings by Abel Schrøder the Younger and a model ship hanging from the ceiling. Queen Margrethe II was married here in 1967.
Kongens Nytorv
Meaning “The King’s New Square,” this large square was laid out in 1680 by Christian V. His statue sits at the centre. The large building on the southwest side is the Royal Theatre.
The Royal Theatre (Det Kongelige Teater)
Built in 1748 for plays, opera and ballet, it is adorned with statues of playwrights Holberg and Oehlenschläger.
Nyhavn
Walk along the canal-lined Nyhavn, full of restaurants, bars and colourful boats. Hans Christian Andersen lived at No.18 and later at No.67.
Amalienborg
The royal residence consists of four identical Rococo palaces around an octagonal square. Soldiers in bearskin helmets guard the complex. The Queen’s residence is on the right-hand wing next to the colonnade. The equestrian statue at the centre is of Frederik V.
Marmorkirken (The Marble Church)
One of the largest domes in Europe, work began in 1749 but was halted due to the rising cost of Norwegian marble. The building sat unfinished for a century and was finally completed in 1894 using Danish marble.
Churchill Park & Gefion Fountain
Churchill Park contains the Museum of Danish Resistance and St. Alban’s Church. Nearby stands the Gefion Fountain (1908), depicting the goddess Gefion ploughing the island of Zealand with her four sons transformed into oxen.
The Little Mermaid
Created in 1913 by Edvard Eriksen and modelled on ballerina Ellen Price, the Little Mermaid commemorates Andersen’s story. The statue has suffered multiple acts of vandalism through the years, including decapitation and the loss of an arm—both later restored.
Return along the Esplanaden, then left into Bredgade to reach Kongens Nytorv. This district, developed alongside Amalienborg, was once highly fashionable. Søren Kierkegaard lived and died at No.70.